2024 Alaska Mountaineering

In May 2024, a team of seven, which included one Imperial student, travelled to the Alaska range to experience Alpine climbing around Mount Hunter. The main aims were to ascend Bibler Klewin on the Moonflower Buttress, (Alaskan grade VI, 6,000ft), and to climb the West Ridge, (AK V, 8,000ft). From the ‘last frontier’ of Talkeetna, the team were flown by de Havilland turbine Otter ski-equipped planes to the Kahiltna glacier, where they base-camped for three weeks amongst some of North America’s highest peaks. Unfortunately, poor weather conditions, including many days of snowfall, meant their original objectives could not be accomplished. Instead, the group climbed multiple day routes closer to their camp. These included an ascent almost to the summit to Bacon and Eggs (AK IV, 1,500ft), attempts on the southwest ridge of Mount Frances, and mixed routes on the Mini Moonflower.  

The southwest ridge of Mount Frances allowed the team to top 4 rock towers along the route, whilst attempts were made on the Bibler Klewin, the high point on Bacon and Eggs via the ice route on the Mini-Mini Moonflower, and an ascent of North Couloir (AK IV, 2,000ft) to just below the ridge cornice. The group successfully summited the south face of Radio Control tower, possibly establishing a new mixed route (~1,700ft, M6).  

In addition to funding provided by the Exploration Board this expedition was supported by the Old Centralians' Trust and the Lord Mayor's 800th Anniversary Awards Trust.